It seems I always end up visiting countries at the time of important national holidays. In Sri Lanka already, my second week was interrupted by the two days celebration of Sinhala-Tamil new year. This time in DRC, it is the anniversary of the 50 years independence that is forcing me into idleness. Not that I complain, but it does put the work on hold and as I only have a week to complete the reporting and editing of two shows with the newly trained reporters, it is putting strain on our agenda.     

Primus, the local beer, special edition for the Cinquentenaire- photosMelanie Gouby

The anniversary is of course a big deal here. Tomorrow there will be a huge military parade on Goma main street and I am really looking forward to it. Not the least because I will be one of the very few foreigners who will be attending it. Most NGOs and international agencies are observing a lock-down for fear that the celebration might degenerate into some kind of fight (no one is really sure between who, but “you know, TIA”). Rumours are trouble would come from the district of Rutshuru and indeed there have been several attacks in Ruwenzori in the past days carried out by the ADF/NALU Ugandan militias, but it is rather unlikely anything will happen. Goma centre will be packed with soldiers, from the Congolese national army (FARDC) and MONUC, and although I don’t really see what the big UN tanks could do against an attack in streets crammed with civilians, it is according to Congolese journalists the quietest Goma has been in a long time.     

“What’s there to celebrate?” is a question that comes back almost every time I asked people if they are doing something on the 30^th. Mobutu’s dictatorship, wars and poverty being the highlights of the past decades, it is hardly surprising people have little enthusiasm. Celebrating the independence would also imply celebrating being independent, but many feel they are subjected to a form a of neo-colonialism. Their protection depending on a foreign force, their resources being exploited by foreign countries, their daily income often depending on foreign aid. And then there are the never-ending Kabila’s years, not exactly marked by good governance. Marie, a reporter working for the national radio, wonders with what money she is supposed to join in the celebration. Civil servants are never paid in Eastern DRC.     

Apart from the parade a massive tombola has been organised and free sodas will be distributed. I don’t know anyone who has been planning on attending the rally, but I’m dragging my colleagues Maitre Charles and Marie with me to see it in the morning. I’m sure there will be a massive crowd and I will try to get a few pictures without getting in trouble this time. Marie is sewing a pagne for me. Maybe I’ll blend in a bit better? ( I know, I wish). Everyone is getting “50^th anniversary” clothes: dressed, shirts, scarves, made of colourful and not so tasteful materials printed with symbols of DRC and inscriptions about the independence. I hope she choose wisely….     

In Kinshasa, festivities are also set to be a huge party with a massive budget being allocated to free beers for the Kinois. This actually has attracted criticisms from many, who think maybe their tax money could be spent in paying school teachers rather than booze. Kabila’s popularity has sharply declined in recent years as people in the East -which initially constituted the president stronghold- have been disappointed with the government inability to improve their daily life.     

Commemorating independence also means Belgium had to send representatives. But considering the strained relationship between the two countries following harsh declarations on DRC corruption by Karel de Gucht, Belgium minister of foreign affairs, there won’t be too much decorum for Albert II of Belgium and Yves Leterme’s visit.     

I would recommend looking at this picture slideshow created by the BBC for the 50 years anniversary. The pictures are beautiful and the comments give a good feel of the population mindset, although it is a pessimistic view and I found much more joy here than what is reflected by the black and white photos. Black and white, never a good choice for Africa.